Ok. I am going to show you this again with the sixth string because it's larger and you can see it better.
I won't drag you through tying all six strings but I want to do it a couple times so you have the process down.
Once again we start with the pin at the bridge and saddle and this is where it actually is a little bit trickier to get done what I showed you earlier.
When you put the head or the end of the string in and you start to push that pin down make sure that the slot is riding alongside the string
and pretty soon you will get to the point to where you can feel the bead kind of separate from the pin and you can pull it up and down in that hole.
What you want is that string all the way back out as far as it can go before you lock the pin in place.
That bead is not resting against the pin.
The bead is resting in a little pocket behind the saddle.
The pins only job is to hold that string in the little groove it's not up to the pin to hold the thousand pound pressure on the string
it's just merely a locking mechanism to hold it in place.
If you get that slack out now and pull it tight it will save you tuning problems later.
Going up here again and placing your finger on the nut and you're going to hold it until we can start cranking.
We have once again the pin has the hole.
Now we're on the opposite side of the clock and we're at 11 o'clock to 5 o'clock and I want to come from the inside of the pins,
around the top and then thread back down through that hole and come underneath it and if that folds over it's ok just flip it back in place.
The idea is we want to get to the point to where it's in place and we've taken as much of the slack out of it as we can.
You may have to fiddle with it just a little bit to get that done.
It doesn't have to be tight that's not the goal.
The goal is just to minimize the number of turns on the peg.
Now we're going to do our "S" turn again and come back around the outside of the pin and that's where we're actually bending the string.
Come underneath the main part of the string fix our tuck, again leaving no slack and then a deliberate bend out coming from underneath the string
so that when you start cranking on the string that first bend of the string lays down on top of itself and locks it in place.
The easiest way to think about it is an "S" bend with a tuck underneath to lock it.
We're there.
Now we can take the rest of the slack out and begin to get close to tuning pitch but we're not going to go all the way up.
I'm going to go ahead and put the other four strings on and then we will talk about the next step.